Like Michael Jordan himself, the Air Jordan 1 was an instant hit. But the sneaker’s renewed reign 35 years later isn’t just about greatness. It’s about the stories that build the myth.

There’s a story behind virtually every pair of Air Jordan 1s. The classic Bred colorway represents a young player becoming a national sensation; they’re the big bang for Michael Jordan as a marketing icon and much of what’s come to be known as “sneaker culture.” The Shattered Backboards are modeled after the uniform he wore during a 1985 Italian exhibition game when he, well, shattered the backboard. The Barons are a reminder that the greatest basketball player on earth once took a year off to ride the bus in the minor leagues. The Lettermans are a tongue-in-cheek nod to the colors of the tracksuit a young Michael wore when he told the late-night host that he thought the Breds were ugly.

What is it about the Air Jordan 1 that still captivates the imagination? Neither the “Banned” nor “Meant to Fly” ads were the most successful Jordan campaigns—that distinction belongs to the Jordan 3 Mars Blackmon “It’s Gotta Be the Shoes” commercials with Spike Lee. The 1s weren’t Michael’s favorites—those are the 11s, which he famously wore in Space Jam. They’re certainly not the best to play basketball in—the thin rubber sole is no match for newer models like XX8, which boasts a neoprene shroud and carbon-fiber support. And the 1s weren’t the sneakers Michael rocked when he became a champion for the first time—his legend was truly cemented with black and red 6s on his feet.

Part of the reason the AJ1 is still so beloved is the look. Peter Moore’s finest sneaker features a distinct yet classic design that pops without being too showy, and it was the only signature Jordan until the XXXI to contain a swoosh. It’s also the most utilitarian Air Jordan: “You can play basketball in it, you can skate in it, you can wear it to a fashion show—I mean, you can literally wear it anywhere,” says Houston Rockets forward P.J. Tucker, whose first basketball shoes were the AJ1s his mother bought him as he was growing up in North Carolina.